Aquarium Setup: Complete Beginner’s Guide (10–30 Gallons)
1) Plan It Right: Space, Stand, Tank Size (10/20/30G) & Budget
Start with a plan and you’ll avoid 90% of beginner headaches. The 10–30 gallon range is ideal: large enough for water stability, small enough to fit an apartment and a realistic budget. Your plan should connect four things: space, stand, tank size, and ongoing costs. Make those decisions up front and everything—from gear to fish choice—becomes straightforward.
Space & stand. A filled aquarium weighs roughly 4.5 kg per gallon including glass and decor: ~45 kg for 10G, 90 kg for 20G, 135 kg for 30G. Use a level, water‑resistant stand rated for the weight; bookcases and kitchen carts are risky. Keep the top rim around eye level when seated so you actually enjoy the view. Leave 8–10 cm behind the tank for hoses and cables, pick an outlet with a drip loop, and give yourself a straight path to a sink for easy water changes.
Tank size & footprint. A 10G (20″×10″×12″) works as a betta palace or nano community. A 20‑gallon long (30″×12″×12″) is the hobby’s sweet spot—stable, affordable, and roomy for schooling fish. A 30G gives extra stocking flexibility and smoother chemistry. If the stand and budget allow, choose the largest footprint you can; more water = slower parameter swings and easier success.
Noise & placement. Filters hum and air pumps buzz. For bedrooms, pick a quiet HOB/canister and place pumps on silicone pads. Avoid direct sun (algae) and heater vents (temperature swings). Keep at least 1 m from windows and doors that slam; vibration cracks decor glue joints over time.
Budget the right way. Split costs into one‑time and ongoing. One‑time: tank + stand; filter (HOB or compact canister); heater (3–5 W/gal); substrate (inert sand or fine gravel); hardscape (rock, driftwood); light (stock LED is fine for easy plants); liquid test kit; water conditioner; nets, buckets, siphon. Ongoing: dechlorinator, food variety, plant fertilizer (if planted), and occasional mechanical media. Keep a small emergency envelope for fish health (salt, methylene blue, basic antibiotics) so problems don’t stall you.
Gear that matches goals. Decide the type of aquarium first: a gentle betta+shrimp nano (sponge filter, 25 °C); a 20G community (HOB/canister with real‑world 6–10× turnover); or a planted show tank (even‑spread LED, dark substrate, root tabs). Write your goal, then select gear that supports that goal instead of impulse‑buying a “kit.”
2) Build Step‑by‑Step: Substrate, Hardscape, Filter/Heater, Fill & Cycle
Build step‑by‑step with a clean workflow. Don’t glue hardscape to thin glass; don’t rinse media under tap; don’t fill before you like the layout. A deliberate build prevents most leaks, rattles, and algae later.
1) Rinse & inspect. Rinse the empty tank with plain water and check seams. Rinse sand/gravel in a bucket until the water runs mostly clear. Soak driftwood if possible to reduce tannins and help it sink. Scrub rocks—no soaps ever.
2) Substrate. For beginners, inert sand or fine gravel is easy. Add 2–5 cm depth; slope slightly higher at the back for perspective. If you want a planted tank, you can cap a thin nutrient soil with sand/gravel or simply insert root tabs under heavy feeders (swords, crypts). Avoid sharp gravel with corydoras.
3) Hardscape. Place rocks first for stability, then wood. Test stability by gently pushing—if it wobbles now, it’ll topple later. Keep an open swim lane and avoid trapping detritus under overhangs. Use cotton thread or gel super‑glue to attach moss/anubias to wood or stone; they’re epiphytes and shouldn’t be buried.
4) Install filter & heater. Hang the HOB or set canister intake/return; add a pre‑filter sponge to protect shrimp/fry and to stop sand from entering. Place the heater near flow and set to 24–26 °C for tropical communities. Route cables with drip loops and keep power strips off the floor.
5) Fill & dechlorinate. Put a plate or plastic bag on the substrate to avoid craters, then pour. Dose dechlorinator for the full tank volume if filling from the tap. Start the filter and set the light on a timer (6–8 h/day initially). Inspect for leaks and hums.
6) Cycle the tank (fishless). Add a pinch of food or—better—dose pure household ammonia to ~2 ppm. Seed bacteria with cycled media from a healthy tank or a reputable bottled starter. Test daily: ammonia should fall while nitrite rises, then both fall and nitrate appears. Only add fish when you can dose to ~2 ppm and read 0 ammonia / 0 nitrite within 24 hours for several days in a row. This is predictable, gentle on livestock, and builds your testing routine.
7) Optional planting (highly recommended). Starter plants—anubias, java fern, dwarf sag, vallisneria, hornwort—thrive under basic light and consume nutrients that algae would take. Tuck root feeders near tabs; glue epiphytes to hardscape. Mist plants as you work; don’t let leaves dry.
8) Final checks. Verify temperature is stable over 24 hours, confirm the stand is dry, and listen for rattles. Label buckets “FISH ONLY.” You’re ready to stock—slowly.
3) Stocking That Works: Peaceful Fish, Starter Plants & Acclimation
Stocking that works is about bioload and behavior, not just pretty fish. Build around a centerpiece or a school, then add complementary species that use different zones. Keep schooling fish in real groups (8–12+), pick one peaceful centerpiece (honey gourami or betta), and avoid mixing multiple territorial surface fish.
10 gallons ideas. (A) Betta centerpiece + 8–10 ember tetras + a cleanup crew (nerite snail or 6–8 neo shrimp—watch the betta’s temperament). (B) Single‑species nano: 12–16 chili rasboras with shrimp and moss. (C) Guppies trio (1M/2F) + 6 corydoras pygmaeus. Keep it light; small volumes swing fast.
20 gallons ideas. (A) School of 12 neon/harlequin rasboras + 8 corydoras + 1 honey gourami. (B) Livebearer community: 6–8 platies + 8 corydoras; add a bristlenose pleco only in 20‑long with real wood and strong filtration. (C) Apistogramma pair + 10–12 cardinal tetras + 6 otocinclus (after 3 months in a mature, algae‑bearing tank).
30 gallons ideas. (A) 15–20 cardinals/bleeding hearts + 10 corydoras + 1–2 honey gouramis. (B) Praecox rainbowfish group (8–10) + 8 corydoras. (C) Single juvenile angelfish grow‑out + schooling tetras (avoid tiny nano species that could be eaten later) with tall plants and wood.
Acclimation. Float bags 15–20 minutes to temperature‑match, then drip acclimate sensitive species (shrimp, otos) for 45–60 minutes. Net fish into the tank—never pour store water. Keep lights off for a few hours; feed lightly the first day.
Compatibility & numbers. Schoolers need groups to behave naturally; long‑fin fish hate nippers; bettas dislike other colorful surface fish. Choose one centerpiece (betta or gourami or dwarf cichlid), not all three. Add livestock in batches with a week between additions so bacteria keep up.
Easy plants to pair. Anubias, java fern, java moss, dwarf sag, vallisneria, amazon sword. Give 6–8 h of light and root tabs for heavy feeders. Plants stabilize tanks, eat nutrients, and provide cover for shy fish and shrimp.
4) First 30 Days: Simple Care Schedule, Tests & Problem Prevention
The first 30 days determine how stable your aquarium will be. Follow this bounded schedule and you’ll avoid most “new tank” disasters while building good habits.
Days 1–7. Test daily: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. Keep feeding tiny—fish won’t starve. If ammonia or nitrite shows, do a 25–30% water change and increase aeration. Wipe glass if biofilm appears. Double‑check heater with a second thermometer; confirm filter flow is steady. Plants: don’t prune hard—let them root.
Days 8–14. Establish rhythm: 25–30% weekly change, light gravel vac in open areas, and rinse mechanical media in removed tank water. Dose dechlorinator for the full volume on refill. Keep light at 6–8 h and increase only when plants show vigorous growth (new leaves, runners).
Days 15–21. If parameters hold at 0/0 and nitrate rises predictably, consider your first small addition of fish. Space additions by a week. Start a feeding schedule (two small meals/day) and include one fast day weekly.
Days 22–30. Add gentle plant trims and run a flow audit (drop a leaf to watch circulation). Replace noisy impellers or buzzing air stones. Log trends—nitrate targets (10–30 ppm in planted tanks), temperature, any algae hints. Course‑correct now to prevent compounding issues.
Common pitfalls to avoid. (1) Overcleaning filters—kills nitrifiers. (2) Overfeeding—drives cloudy water and algae. (3) Adding too many fish at once—spikes ammonia. (4) Random chemicals—use targeted fixes after testing. (5) Ignoring KH—low buffer causes pH swings; if your tap is soft, consider remineralization or a small bag of crushed coral.
FAQ
Can I skip the fishless cycle if I use bottled bacteria?
Bottled bacteria help, but you still need an ammonia source and testing. Dose to ~2 ppm ammonia and wait for 0/0 readings within 24 hours for several days before adding fish.
Is a 10‑gallon too small for beginners?
It works for a betta or a nano school, but a 20‑gallon long is more forgiving and easier to stock without crowding.
Do I need CO₂ for beginner plants?
No. Easy plants thrive with decent light, weekly water changes, and occasional root tabs/liquid fertilizers.
Next reads: Cycling an Aquarium – Beginner Overview • Beginner Community Fish • The First 30 Days Plan • Aquarium Placement 101
Labels: Beginner Guide, Aquarium Setup, 10 Gallon, 20 Gallon, 30 Gallon, Freshwater